Morocco's Ceramics Heartland: The Essential Travel Guide to Safi
- Malika
- Jun 21, 2024
- 6 min read
Updated: Jul 17
Located halfway between the seaside cities of El Jadida and Essaouira, Safi is a historic coastal city that remains somewhat unknown amongst international tourists. Moroccans are well aware of Safi due to the exceptional craftsmanship and artistry of its ceramicists, but there's a lot more to discover here.
Safi's history dates back to at least the 12th century when it was already established as an important port on the Atlantic coast. It was occupied by the Portuguese from 1488 to 1541 and became known for the quality of its weaving and as a sardine fishery. Allied forces landed in Safi during World War II as part of Operation Blackstone, which saw American soldiers occupy the French-held port.
Today, Safi is most well-known for its Potters' Quarter where you can witness skilled artisans handcrafting the vibrantly-coloured pottery for which the city is renowned. That being said, it is a bustling industrial city, so don’t expect the historic charm of Essaouira or El Jadida. For some, it’s the grittiness and authenticity of Safi that is all part of its appeal.
In this Essential Travel Guide to Safi, discover the top things to see and do in the city, as well as inspiring places to stay and the best time to visit.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Best things to do in Safi
Wander through the medina
Safi's historic medina boasts a captivating blend of architectural and cultural influences, reflecting the Portuguese, Moroccan, French and Jewish communities who have lived here over the centuries. Unlike the more polished and touristy medina of Essaouira, Safi's is a little rougher around the edges, surrounded by what is a busy industrial port.
There are three main entrances to the medina - Bab Jdid, Bab Agrour, and Bab Chabaa - with the latter being the most convenient due to its parking area. Once you enter the historic centre, keep an eye out for the Grand Mosque and the Cathédrale Portugaise, a partially-renovated relic of the city's colonial past.
As you wander along the main thoroughfare, Rue du Socco, stop to explore some of the market stalls and the remnants of former synagogues, as well as the street art that adorns many of the medina’s buildings.
Explore the Colline des Potiers
Tucked away just beyond the city walls is the Potters' Quarter where Safi’s renowned ceramics are produced. As you ascend into the district, you’ll notice wood-burning kilns and womb-like chimneys appearing on the streets, alongside workshops and stalls selling brightly coloured cookware.
While many of the original kilns have been replaced by gas-fired ovens, the spirit of this time-honoured craft lives on in the Collines des Potiers.
Visitors are welcome to wander and observe the ceramic-making process in action, with some of Morocco’s most skilled artisans at the wheel. It’s best to harness the services of a local guide (they will approach you if you are visiting independently) to better understand Safi’s ceramic-making traditions. Be sure to agree on a price beforehand.
If you want to visit any of the workshops, it’s customary to leave a small tip for the craftsperson if you’re not making any purchases.
Things to do in Safi, Morocco
Visit the National Ceramics Museum
Before or after your visit to the Collines des Potiers, be sure to pay a visit to this fascinating museum to learn more about Morocco’s artisan heritage. It’s home to an impressive collection featuring some of the country's finest ceramic treasures, as well as explaining what sets Safi’s products apart.
In addition to vases, bowls and platters, the National Ceramic Museum's galleries are filled with other functional and decorative wares produced across Morocco. While the descriptive placards are presented only in French and Arabic, the craftsmanship of the displayed works speaks for itself.
After your visit, be sure to ascend to the rooftop terrace, where you'll be rewarded with stunning views across Safi's medina and the Atlantic Ocean beyond.
The National Ceramics Museum is open from 10 am to 6 pm (closed Tuesdays) and entrance costs 20 DH for adults, 10 DH for students and 3 DH for children.
Relax at the beach
Located just north of the port, Safi Beach offers a respite from the hustle and bustle of the city and comes alive on weekends with locals swimming, playing football and cooking up a storm. It can be reached via a half-hour walk from Bab Chaaba or you can jump in a petit taxi to whisk you there.
Beyond simply sunbathing and swimming, there are several places where you can rent surfboards or take a lesson in the gentle waves. Be aware that big swells can hit Safi and beginners shouldn’t head out in these conditions.
Surf Safi’s legendary breaks
When the wind and swell align, Safi offers up some world-class waves that draw experienced surfers from near and far. It has garnered a reputation as a big wave destination but still remains little-visited by international surfers, at least compared to the well-trodden surf stomping ground of Taghazout further south.
If you're heading to Safi to surf, you can check in with the Safi Surf Club to learn more about the conditions or take a lesson with one of their experienced instructors. For advanced surfers looking to push the boundaries, "Le Jardin" provides the ultimate testing ground.
Things to do in Safi, Morocco
How to get to Safi
By car
Safi is located around two hours’ drive north of Essaouira and 3.5 hours from Casablanca. From El Jadida or Marrakech, the drive is around 2.5 hours.
If you’re self-driving, I recommend renting a car through Discover Cars, which lists all of the best deals from hundreds of providers.
To learn more about driving in Morocco, check out my detailed article here.
If you don’t have your own vehicle, grand taxis regularly make the journey between Essaouira and Safi, departing once they are full. Private transfers from Marrakech to Safi are also available.
By bus
If you’re travelling independently, the cheapest way to reach Safi from Essaouira is by bus, with CTM offering services throughout the day. There are departures at 10 am, 12 pm, 3:30 pm and 5:15 pm, with the journey between 2 and 2.5 hours.
These buses continue on to Casablanca, so keep that in mind when looking for the vehicle. If you're travelling from Casablanca to Safi, the bus services are more frequent.
Tickets can be purchased at the CTM website or you can compare buses (and buy tickets) at 12Go or Omio.
Travel guide to Safi, Morocco
Best places to stay in Safi
Best modern hotel in Safi
Located just outside the city centre, this modern Safi hotel features spacious rooms and suites with a contemporary design. While it lacks the charm of a Moroccan riad, it more than makes up for it with its high-end amenities and amazing swimming pool. If you’re self-driving, this luxury Safi hotel has plenty of parking on site.
"This is a perfect rest stop while traveling the coast as it was clean, comfortable and easily accessible for a car.” - Branker (read more reviews here)
Best traditional riad in Safi
Offering wonderful views across the medina and the Atlantic Ocean beyond, this affordable Safi riad hotel is beautifully decorated with Moroccan tiles and decor. It offers both twin and double rooms, as well as a single room for solo travellers. A traditional breakfast is served each morning and included in the rates.
"Great breakfast with an awesome view of the Atlantic and the old town.” - Paul (read more reviews here)
Dar Dada $
Best holiday apartment in Safi
Beautifully decorated, this two-bedroom apartment is perfect for families visiting Safi or those wanting to self-cater during their stay. It comes with a fully-equipped kitchen and a washing machine, as well as a terrace where you can enjoy panoramic views overlooking the medina. While one bedroom has a double bed, the other has two single beds.
Best places to stay in Safi, Morocco
Best time to visit Safi
With an abundance of sunny days throughout the year, Safi makes for a fantastic destination, no matter when you are visiting Morocco. It enjoys mild temperatures due to its coastal setting, with only occasional rainy days (usually just light showers).
January and February are the coolest months, with average highs around 18°C (64°F) - perfect for a winter getaway! Summer temperatures average around 25°C (77°F) in July and August (although it can get much hotter), with the sea breezes usually keeping things comfortable. Keep in mind, this is one of the busiest times to visit Safi when Moroccans are on their annual holidays.
For a quieter experience, consider visiting during the shoulder seasons of April to June or September to October. During these periods, the weather is pleasant and you'll avoid the peak tourist crowds.
