The Ultimate Travel Guide to Fes
- Malika
- Feb 2, 2024
- 12 min read
Updated: May 22
As one of Morocco's most ancient cities, Fes overflows with cultural treasures and should be high on every traveller’s “must-visit” list. Founded in the 9th century, it was home to one of the first universities in the world and contains the largest intact medieval old city in existence. It's no wonder Fes is often referred to as Morocco's cultural capital.
Fes was one of the first places we visited as a couple after we met and I loved it from the moment we arrived! From the labyrinthine alleys of Fes’s medieval medina to the architectural marvels of its mosques and medersas, this city never fails to enchant. Add to that colourful souks overflowing with traditional crafts and palatial riads, I think Fes is like nowhere else in Morocco.
That being said, Fes can feel challenging for some visitors, with a lot of people vying for your attention as you walk between sights and through the souks. Unfortunately, getting "hassled" is not uncommon and you do have to have your wits about you. My advice would be to walk with purpose, avoid following anyone who tells you that you're going the "wrong way" and be polite but firm if someone is making you feel uncomfortable. Remember, Fes is home to lots of wonderful people who are just tying to make a living, so don't let a few "bad apples" ruin your experience or impression.
In this Ultimate Travel Guide to Fes, discover everything you need to know to experience this ancient city to the fullest, from the best things to do in Fes and incredible riad stays to my top tour recommendations.
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BEST TOURS IN FES
Don't have time to read the whole article? These are my top Fes tour recommendations:
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Best things to do in Fes
Get lost in the winding alleys of Fes el Bali
This sprawling neighbourhood is a world unto itself, where you can lose yourself in the sights, sounds and smells of Morocco's cultural capital. Pass through the grand, 14th-century entrance of Bab Boujloud to catch your first glimpse of the green-tiled minaret of Medersa Bou Inania, rising over the rooftops.
Within the ancient walls, Fes el Bali is divided by a meandering river. To the left is where you'll find historic monuments like Al Quaraouiyine Mosque, along with shopping souks selling traditional Moroccan wares. From vibrant leather poufs to gleaming brass platters and iconic Fassi pottery, Fes is renowned for its artisan goods. The right bank has more of a local vibe, with photogenic blue alleyways where you can observe the comings and goings of daily life.
With its hilly cobblestone lanes, Fes el Bali is best explored on foot and wandering its streets is definitely one of the best things to do in Fes. I’d recommend putting aside a few hours to get purposefully lost, soaking up its one-of-a-kind atmosphere. Exploring the area is not so much about ticking off sights but discovering unexpected corners and enjoying authentic encounters with locals.
Don't want to explore Fes al Bali alone? This Half-day tour of Fes is led by a highly knowledgeable guide who will share their unique insights on the city.
Best things to do in Fes, Morocco
Visit Al Quaraouiyine Mosque and Al Attarine Madrasa
Al Quaraouiyine was founded in 859 BCE by Fatima al-Fihri as an ancient university and still operates today as a mosque. While its prayer hall is off-limits to non-Muslims, you can usually catch a glimpse of the courtyard through one of the entrances and its library is accessible to all. Renovated in 2016, it features ornate tilework and centuries-old manuscripts, offering an insight into Al Quaraouiyine’s rich past as one of the world's oldest continually operating universities.
Next to the mosque is Al Attarine Madrasa, a 14th-century Islamic school named after the bustling marketplace nearby. Visiting this architectural wonder is, in my opinion, one of the best things to do in Fes. Despite its small size, Al Attarine really is impressive, particularly following its recent restoration. Marvel at the intricate blue and green tilework, ornately carved plaster and fragrant cedar wood as you wander through its tranquil courtyard. In the adjacent market, you’ll find spices, nuts and dried fruit piled high, just as they have been for generations.
Want to discover more madrasas? This article details 6 of the Most Beautiful Madrasas in Fes.
Best things to do in Fes
Explore the museum of Dar Batha
This outstanding museum is housed in a stunning Hispano-Moorish summer palace that dates back to the 19th century and has reopened to the public only recently following extensive restoration works. On display is everything from wood carvings to ironwork and textiles, as well as handcrafted Moroccan jewellery. For anyone interested in Moroccan design, this museum is a “must”!
The star exhibit is the ceramics room, home to a collection of iconic blue-and-white Fassi pottery for which Fes is renowned. I also loved the timeline of Moroccan history, which helped me get my head around the often complicated succession of rulers in the area. Information is provided in English, French and Darija and there are some interesting videos explaining the various Moroccan crafts.
As captivating as the museum’s exhibits are, the building itself enchants with a shady internal courtyard filled with palms and flowering trees. Be sure to allow enough time to relax amidst its mosaic tiles and burbling fountains!
When we last visited Dar Batha, immediately following its reopening, it was blissfully quiet in the garden. But I suspect word will get out soon about just how great this museum is! Be aware that DSLR cameras are not allowed but you can take pics on your phone.
For more cultural inspiration, check out this list of the Best Museums in Fes.
Best things to do in Fes
Photograph the Chouara Tannery
Fes is home to the oldest leather tanning site on earth and witnessing the colourful pits of the Chouara Tannery is one of the best things to do in Fes. Watch as leatherworkers ply their ancient trade amid a sprawling complex of houses and shops, many of which are now filled with leather products crafted nearby.
If you're travelling independently, you'll find plenty of people in the area directing you to terraces from where you can view the tanneries, usually by passing through a store filled with leather goods. If someone ends up "guiding" you (basically walking you through the site and providing information), there will be an expectation that you tip, unless you plan on buying something from their store.
If you know you don't want to buy anything and just want to go up to take a couple of photos, be upfront with whoever is manning the door. This will save you any hassles later on. If you're with a guide, they will do this negotiating for you. In my experience, the busier the leather stores are, the less you will be hassled to buy and the easier it is to slip away after viewing the tanneries.
While visiting the tanneries is a “must”, be warned that the pungent aroma of dyeing vats is intense, so come prepared with a scarf to cover your nose or mint leaves to inhale (mint leaves are provided by many of the leather cooperatives surrounding the tanneries).
Witnessing the time-honoured techniques (unchanged for centuries) of these artisans is fascinating. So too is the treasure trove of quality leather goods available to take home as souvenirs.
Best things to do in Fes, Morocco
Admire the Medersa Bou Inania
Near the entrance to the old medina is this former theological college, which was commissioned by Sultan Bou Inan in the 14th century. It feels more spacious than Al Attarine but its restoration isn't as recent, giving it a more authentic, "lived-in" feel., Decorating its central courtyard are stunning mosaics, carved plaster designs and delicate cedar mashrabiyas, as well as several imposing doors.
The Medersa Bou Inania is an active place of worship, so it closes for prayers throughout the day. In my experience, the quietest time to visit to capture people-free photos is when it reopens following prayer times. Unlike the Al Attarine Madrasa, the upstairs area was not accessible last time I visited but this may change in the future.
The Medersa Bou Inania is just one of the architectural marvels visited on this informative Full-day tour of Fes.
Stroll through the Mellah quarter
The Mellah quarter has a fascinating history dating back to the 14th century when it first became home to the Jewish community in Fes. At its peak, this thriving neighbourhood was home to over 250,000 Jews and the architecture still reflects these roots.
At the heart of the Mellah quarter is the historic Ibn Danan synagogue, which dates back to the 17th century and is entered through an unassuming door. While only a handful of Jewish residents remain (most left following the creation of Israel), the Mellah still holds onto its heritage and offers a fascinating glimpse into the lives of Morocco’s Jewish community.
You can learn more about Morocco's Jewish cultural heritage in this detailed article.
Best things to do in Fes
Visit the Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Crafts
Hidden amid the metalworker shops of Place Nejjarine is a historic inn that once served a rest stop for travelling traders. It now showcases Morocco's rich artistic heritage as the Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Crafts, one of the most fascinating museums in Fes. I love it here! Not only is the building beautiful but the exhibits are really beautifully presented.
You can wander through the salons where merchants once slept, with engraved granary doors, ornate dowry chests and delicate mashrabiya screens now filling the rooms. While the informative displays (in English, French and Darija) offer a unique insight into the country’s artisanal legacy, the splendour of the building is worth the entrance price alone.
At the heart of the property is a central courtyard that has been majestically restored, with sturdy pillars and carved wood detailing. Be sure to visit the rooftop terrace for sweeping views across Fes - you can also relax with a drink in the cafe here. Keep in mind that photos are not allowed of the exhibits themselves, although you can take images of the central courtyard.
Best things to do in Fes, Morocco
Relax in the Bou Jeloud Gardens
If you need to escape the hustle and bustle of the medina or just want a change of scenery, these lush gardens are a tranquil oasis near Bab Boujloud. Stroll along the winding garden paths lined with seasonal flower beds and gurgling fountains that never fail to soothe the senses.
One of the best times to visit is as the day draws to a close, with many locals coming to stroll and enjoy time with their family. In summer, people gather along the trails to admire the sunset colours and enjoy the cooler evening air.
Best things to do in Fes
Soak up the city views from the Merenid Tombs and Borj Nord
Perched atop a hill overlooking Fes are two important historic sites, both of which offer wonderful views across the ancient city. Make the steep trek up to Borj Nord and you’ll encounter its 16th-century fortress, which now houses an intriguing military museum. Inside is a collection of rare weapons from around the world, including a massive 12-ton cannon used in the Battle of the Three Kings.
Continue walking up the hill until you reach the summit, where the golden-hued Merenid Tombs stand. During my last visit in April 2025, the tombs were closed for restoration, so check if they're open before making the trek there.
While the crumbling tombs are in disrepair (this may change following restoration works!), the panoramic views of the city below and the rolling green hills in the distance are spectacular. This is a particularly popular spot to watch the sunset in Fes. After sunset, I wouldn't hang around too long as it's not necessarily a safe place to be after dark.
Top tours in Fes
For more detailed information about the tours above, check out my list of the Best Fes Tours and Day Trips.
How to get to Fes
Fly to Fes-Saiss Airport
Located just 15 kilometres from the city centre is Fes-Saiss Airport, which receives flights from all major Moroccan cities and many European destinations. You can fly direct to Fes from London, Marseille and Barcelona, as well as Amsterdam, Paris and Rome.
The most affordable way to get from Fes-Saiss Airport into the city centre is by the number 16 public bus. Fixed price taxis are also available outside the arrivals terminal (expect to pay around 120DH - check the sign in the arrivals area) or you can book a prepaid private transfer for a hassle-free experience.
Private transfer
The most comfortable and convenient way to reach Fes is by booking a private transfer, especially if you're traveling in a group. You'll get door-to-door service directly to your hotel or riad, avoiding the hassle of lugging bags to a bus station or negotiating fares with taxi drivers. Fes private transfers are available from most major cities across Morocco.
By train
If you’re travelling to Fes from within Moroccan, train may be the most convenient option. The main railway station is Fes-Ville, which has regular connections to Casablanca, Tangier and Marrakech. Fares are relatively affordable and you can opt for extra comfort by booking a first-class ticket.
Metered taxis from the Fes-Ville railway station to the medina should cost no more than 50DH. Always ask the driver for a rough price before getting in.
Bus
One of the most affordable ways to reach Fes is by bus, with the Gare Routière bus terminal conveniently located in the northern quarter of the city. There are bus services to Fes from Marrakech, Essaouira and Tangier, as well as Rabat and Casablanca. The journey from Casablanca takes just under 5 hours, with departures every hour. With some buses departing in the evening, you can save on accommodation by booking an overnight trip if you’re travelling from further afield.
Metered taxis from the CTM bus station in the Ville Nouvelle to the medina should cost no more than 50DH. Always ask the driver for a rough price before getting in.
Best places to stay in Fes
Best places to stay in Fes
As with Marrakech, Fes is renowned for its riad hotels and staying in one of these traditional homes is enchanting, to say the least. There are sumptuous historic details around every corner, from stucco mouldings to colourful tilework and arched doorways. That being said, you don’t have to miss out on modern luxuries like air conditioning, comfortable beds and rooftop plunge pools!
Most of the best riads in Fes sit in the mid-range or luxury category, but smaller guesthouses called dars also await the budget-conscious traveller. With so many choices crammed into this fascinating city, deciding where to lay your head can be a challenge. To help you out, I’ve put together a list of some of my favourite places to stay in Fes.
If you're after a high-end stay, this article details 7 of the Best Luxury Hotels in Fes.
Luxury places to stay in Fes
Mid-range places to stay in Fes
Affordable places to stay in Fes
For more Fes accommodation ideas, check out my list featuring 8 of the Best Riads in Fes.
Fes travel guide
Best time to visit Fes
The best times to visit Fes are during the spring (March to May) or autumn (September to November) when temperatures are just right for exploring this fascinating city. With highs hovering around 20 degrees Celsius, you'll be comfortable walking the winding streets both day and night.
Summertime temperatures can reach the high 30s and the crowds of tourists are at their heaviest. If you’re visiting during this period, I’d recommend heading out to explore in the early morning, then again in the evening, with the middle of the day spent luxuriating at your riad.
Winter can be very chilly, with temperatures dipping below 4 degrees C at night. But it’s also one of the quietest times to visit Fes, offering a more authentic experience amongst the locals.
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About the author
I'm Malika, a global traveller who first visited Morocco in 2014 before marrying a local and settling down in a little village on the Atlantic coast. Over the years, I've developed an intense love for Morocco, its majestic landscapes, storied cities and the incredibly warm hospitality of its people. As the owner and content creator of Malika in Morocco, I share my years of experience exploring the country, from north to south and from the Atlantic Ocean to the Sahara Desert. I am passionate about helping others plan their Moroccan travel adventures to ensure they get the most out of their North African experience.
